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Places of Interest
Karaton Surakarta Hadiningrat
Since
February 17, 1745, Susuhunan Pakubuwono II and his family
had occupied the new palace or Karaton located along the
banks of Solo River, the longest river in Java. The former Karaton
in Kartosuro (10 km west of Solo) had been abandoned due to
severe damages. It was not a proper Karaton for the
Susuhunan (king) anymore, after being ransacked on 1742 by
the invaders.
Pakubuwono
II with all his family and subordinates made a day long
royal procession from Kartosuro to Surakarta. The city of
Surakarta could easily connected to east Java main coastal
centers such as Gresik, Tuban via Bengawan (river) Solo.
This 'river connection' was one the reasons to move the
palace to Solo. Pakubuwono means 'center of the world'
(paku: nail, buwono: the world).
The king sat on his royal wagon, Kyai Grudo escorted by
high ranking officials, troops, regalia carriers, bringing
the pusakas (heirlooms) and other important things to be
used in his new palace. The convoy includes also the sacred
gamelan, waringin (Banyan) trees, horses, elephants and a
special chamber Bangsal Pengrawit. Upon arrival at the new
karaton, he announced that starting from today the capital
city of the kingdom was Surokarto Hadiningrat (suro: brave,
valiant - karto: prosperous - Hadi: great, precious - rat :
state).
Coming from the north side of Jalan Slamet Riyadi through
a thoroughfare (gladak), a visitor arrives in the North
Square (alun-alun Lor). In the center of Alun-alun, there
are two waringins (Banyan) trees symbolizing protection and
justice.
The
throne hall Sasono Semowo or Pagelaran faces the square. In
the old days, it was from this hall, the Susuhunan or king
delivered his massage and received report from his
government read by his Patih (chief minister). Further
south, several steps up, there is the Siti Hinggil (high
ground) where the GAREBEG ceremonies started (in separate
article: garabeg in Solo and Jogya).
Passing through the main gate or kori of Brajanala
(braja: ray - Nala: feeling) one enters the fort Baluwerti
on Kemandungan square. Enter to Sri Manganti, where one has
to wait for audience with the king. And there is the main
location called KADATON. In the center is the main throne
hall Sasono Sewoko, where the king received obedience from
his court family and subordinates. It is also a place he
practiced meditation (samadi). There is a small Pendopo
(hall) called Pringgitan, where leather puppet (wayang
kulit) performs from time to time. Next to Sasono Sewoko is
Sasono Handorowino where royal banquets are given.
Leaving
Kadaton to south, there is the Magangan court, where the
court dignitaries entered the sanctum along this route.
There is a pavilion of meditation for princes. There is a
sacred meteorite on the rear bank of the pool. From here
southward, passing the gate or kori of South Brojonolo, then
Sitinggil Kidul, one arrives in the South Square (Alun-Alun
Kidul) The Palace's elephants and buffaloes grazed here in
the old days. Due to the existence of the elephants with its
ivory trunks, this place is popularly known as GADING
(Ivory).
Taking lessons from Kartosuro Palace, which were easy to
be attacked by enemies, the new Surakarta Palace fortified
itself.
So, the Alun-Alun was also meant to be a battleground to
resist any attack. Several batteries of soldiers were
installed in Pagelaran and in front of it (GELAR= formation
of troops; Pagelaran = a place where battle tactics are
decided). The routes encircling the Alun-Alun are called
Supit Urang (Supit-pincers; Urang = crab), symbolizing a
tactic to defeat the intruders.
The reserves (of soldiers) were held in the square of
Kamandungan, Sri Manganti was a rest place.
In Baluarti, there were rice - barns, arsenal and
ammunition depot, and stables for horses of the cavalry and
the special garrison of the king's guard (Tamtomo). The
palace is also a place of high spiritual meaning of old
Javanese faith. As there are seven stairs and seven gates at
Candi Borobudur, there are also seven squares at Solo Palace
:
1. Pamuraan Njawi
2. Pamuraan Nglebet
3. Alun-Alun Lor
4. Sitinggil
5. Kamandungan
6. Sri Manganti
7. Plataran
And Seven Gates (Gapuros) :
1. Gladag
2. Gapuro Pamuraan
3. Kori Wijil
4. Kori Brojonolo
5. Kori Kamandungaan
6. Kori Mangun
7. Kori Manganti
There is Panggung Songgobuwono
(panggung-tower ; songgo-to support ; Buwono the world) in
Baluarti, a tower with octagonal form. Some believe that it
is a place where Sri Sunan (a popular name for the king)
continued the tradition of his ancestors to meet with the
Goddess of South Seas (Kanjeng Ratu Kidul) at least at the
anniversary of his coronation.
West of Kedaton, there is a place
called Mantenan, where there was bandengan, a fishpond with
gurameh fishes and turtles (symbols of long age of life). In
the old days, Sri Sunan delivered the teaching of life
philosophy and cleaned his heirlooms. In the high ground he
did meditations and there is a mosque - Pudyosono (a place
to worship).
Karaton Surakarta as one of
the stronghold of Javanese culture is opened daily to be
adored by visitors. It has a museum and art gallery where
some precious collections are exhibited, such as keris
(daggers), masks, leather puppets, etc.
At present, the King of Surakarta is Sri Susuhunan
Pakubuwono XII.
Puro Mangkunegaran
This
beautiful, well taken care Palace (Puro=Karaton) is located
in the heart of Surakarta (Solo), in between Ranggowarsito,
Kartini, Siswa and Teuku Umar streets.
The construction of the Puro dated back in the year of
1757 by the then Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Adipati Aryo
(K.G.P.A.A) - Mangkoenagoro I (1757-1795). Adipati - Junior
King.
The Mangkunegaran Principality was founded after a series
of bitter struggles against his family and the Dutch V.O.C
(East India Company). In that old days, his nick-name was
Pangeran Sambernyowo (Pangeran: prince - Samber: strike or
grab with force - Nyowo: soul).
He was very dangerous in the battlefields for his
enemies, this brave and brilliant prince has been awarded
the title of National Hero by the Indonesian government.
Pendopo Ageng (The Great Pendopo Pavilion)
It is in the center of the Palace Compound. Its 3270 sqm
Pendopo is a place to perform banquets and traditional
dances accompanied by gamelan music. The gamelan (heirlooms)
called 'Kyai Kanyut Mesem' (Drifting in smiles) is one of
the best gamelan set in the country. There are also other
sets kept here, such as Monggang, Kyai Udan Asih, Udan arum,
etc, and also a golden lion statue as a guard.
Kumudawati Ornaments
The Pendopo Ageng is a
traditional Javanese Joglo house, it has four main big
pillars in the center. Its high rounded ceiling was painted
with ornaments contains Javanese philosophical teachings.
Kumudawati painting was
instructed by K.G.P.A.A. Mangkoenagoro VII in 1937. It was
designed by a Dutch architect Karsten and painted by Liem
Tho Hien, J.A. Atmowirjoso and their friends. The painting
has eight colors in the middle, the philosophical meaning
are :
1. Yellow signifies a preventive against sleepiness
2. Blue against disaster
3. Black against hunger
4. Green against desire or frustration
5. White against lust
6. Rose against fear
7. Red against evil
8. Purple against evil thoughts
Surrounded
by 12 (twelve) Javanese zodiac. Kumuda could be interpreted
as the eight-leafed nymphaea lotus in Candi Borobudur,
representing the jewel of lotus or the notion of perfection.
That's mean a man should occupy his mind with spiritual
perfection and free it from narrow minded and selfish
manners.
Kumudawati ornaments in Mangkunegaran consisted of 12
Javanese Zodiac, 8 divine attributes representing the eight
directions and a spectrum of eight colors in the middle of
ornaments. Circling the Kumuda center representing the jewel
in lotus. Philosophically's mean : Welfare, happiness, peace
and eternity.
K.G.P.A.A
Mangkoenagoro IX had instructed the renovation at these
ornaments and completed in September 1993. Javanese
architecture is recognized as simple but elegant. The wooden
pillars which support the Pendopo Ageng were taken from the
forest of Danalaya (Danalaya woods are preserved only for
the Karatons of Yogya and Solo, it is believed to contain
supernatural power).
The golden-color of Mangkunegaran
is yellowish-green (pareanom) combination as the identity of
this kadipaten Anom (Crown Prince) of Mangkunegaran.
Paringgitan is a place to perform Wayang Kulit (leather
puppet).
Dalem Ageng (The Great House) it is a traditional house
called limasan with eight main pillars. The traditional and
sacred ceremonies are performed here.
Sri
Mangkoenagoro VII was a collector of ancient goods and
valuable arts. There are golden rings, silver and crystal
wears, ancient inscription of 903 AD. Gold plated dresses
for royal dancers, jewellery, Javanese inscriptions on these
rings said: 'Srihana sraya gahan ghurnitta dharma hyang'
which is meant happiness, protection, fame and glory with
you.
There are also magnificent collection of masks from
various Indonesian parts, a series of royal portraits and
book collection of classical works by Mangkoenagoro Princes,
the famous book for Javanese philosophy is Wedotomo.
The interior of the
great house is excellent. In the central of the house there
is a krobongan, a special room used for a newly married
couples, flanked with two statues - one man and one woman in
front of the krobongan, on the right and left side, called
Loro Blonyo, symbolizing well being.
In the exhibition room
there are also the antique royal carriage, named Kyai
Condroretno, and a gold genital cover for a queen.
Balewarni, apartment is on the right side of the main
house is for the princesses. Balepeni
is on the left side is for the princes.
Pracimoyoso
A building reflects a combination of modern and
traditional architecture. There is a dining room here and an
elegant dress room for the queen.
General office and library
The Puro compound is equipped with offices taking care
of the general administration as well as for business. A
good library is also available. Mangkoenagoro families, in
the old days, were well known for its good management to run
the court companies, properties, plantations, holiday
resorts, etc. The Mangkunegoro's court, they had also their
own traditional military units, the cavalry and the
artillery. The military building was still there.
Karaton Kartosuro
Located 10 km west of Solo, the remnant of the palace is
there. It was the center power of Mataram for 60 (sixty) years
until 1745.
Karaton Pajang
Also located in Kartosuro, in the village of Makam Haji,
Pajang. Some believe that it was the site of Karaton Pajang
under Sultan Hadiwijaya who reigned between 1540 – 1580.
Museum
Radya Pustaka
It was built in 1890, located
at JL. Slamet Riyadi. The statue of Ronggowarsito, a Karaton
poet of the past stands in the front yard. It has a good
collection of antiquities, gamelan, keris, puppets, scroll
of wayang beber, some Javanese and Dutch books. Open daily
08.00 AM - 01.00 PM, Friday 08.00 AM - 11.00 AM, Monday
closed
Stasiun Balapan
The main railway station with colonial style building
located around 2 km from the center of the town. Solo is in
the main railway roads connecting Jakarta, Yogyakarta and
Surabaya. It has also connection with Bandung. There are
frequent day and night trains of different classes.
The grave of Ki Ageng Enis
He was the great grand son of King Brawijaya V, the grand
father of Panembahan Senopati (the First king of Mataram
Kingdom II), many pilgrims visit his grave in Laweyan.
The Bengawan or River Solo
This longest river in Java flows along the eastern edge of
the town from its source in the lime stones hill of the
south, near East Java border to its mouth nearby Surabaya,
on the Java sea.
Regretfully, the river is now shallow, it is not navigable
anymore. But in the past It was an important link between
Solo and the north cost of East Java. There is a well-known
song 'Bengawan Solo' composed by Mr. Gesang.
The New City
The main avenue is Jl.
Slamet Riyadi, in the center of the city is the favorite
thoroughfare of Solo. Many hotels, restaurants and offices
are located along and around this avenue. This developing
city has some places of interest among other:
Press Museum
The only press museum in the country. It has collections of
newspapers, bulletins and magazines from the colonial time
to present date.
Dullah Museum
Dullah is one of Indonesia's famous painter and artist. This
museum is located on Jl. DR. Cipto, displaying his painting
and his collection of antiques, ceramics and crafts.
Open daily 08.00 am to noon, Monday is closed.
Sriwedari Park
It is a recreation park with gardens, theaters and
restaurants, located in the center of the city. Locally
known as 'Kebon Rojo', the king's garden.
Bale Kambang
It is a shady tree park for entertainment.
Jurug Park
A recreation center on the bank of Bengawan Solo, with a
zoo, children's playground, etc.
Pasar Gede
It is the biggest traditional market in downtown selling all
manner of produce.
Pasar Depok
It is an interesting outdoor market with many collections of
colorful tropical birds located at the north west end of Jl.
R.M. Said.
Mesjid Agung
Located on the westward of Alun-alun Lor (North Square), it
is the largest mosque in Solo. The dominant architecture is
Javanese.
Gereja (Church) St. Antonius
The biggest church in Purbayan, Solo.
Vihara Rahayu
It is a Chinese Buddhist Temple on Jl. Karaton, southward of
Jl. Slamet Riyadi.
Pura Mandira Seta
A Hindu Shrine and a place of learning Yoga for local and
foreign people at Jl. Sidikara 2, east of Karaton
Pasar Klewer
Off the west gate of Karaton's North Square, this old market
selling all kinds of fabrics, predominantly batik. Other
traditional fabrics are lurik (hand-woven striped cotton
cloth) and tenun ikat. There are hundreds of shops jammed
along narrow passageways. Visitors must be prepared to
bargain.
Pasar Triwindu
Located nearby Mangkunegaran Palace, it is Solo antique market
where devotee of bric-a-brac, curiosities, crafts, etc should
see. There are lamps of varied ornaments and sizes, dinner and
tea sets, goblets, vases and various kinds of souvenirs with
beautiful motifs. The buyers should know the technique of
bargaining.
Wayang
Performances
Wayang orang performances of the Ramayana has proved a popular
distraction for tourists, be sure to catch a show at the
Sriwidari Amusement park, starting at 8pm until Midnight.
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